PESTO

Back to Milano, after a few days spent in Genoa, where – forgetting any diet – I’ve been enjoying trenette, mandilli and croxetti (3 typical types of pasta) with pesto sauce, as I cannot get tired of it. As you can see below, my friend La Signora Tedesca a Telemetro (aka Leica M11 Monochrom) was walking hand-in-hand with me.

Pesto, the traditional sauce from Genoa, Italy, is a vibrant, aromatic condiment known for its fresh and robust flavors. Its name derives from the Genoese word “pestâ,” which means to pound or crush, a reference to its traditional preparation method using a mortar and pestle. Pesto has a rich history that reflects the culinary traditions of the Liguria region.

The quintessential pesto alla Genovese is made with a few simple yet high-quality ingredients: fresh basil leaves, garlic, pine nuts, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, Pecorino cheese, extra virgin olive oil, and a pinch of salt. The choice of ingredients is crucial; for instance, the basil must be young and tender, ideally from the Ligurian variety, known for its sweet and delicate aroma. The garlic, preferably from Vessalico, is less pungent, contributing a mild flavor. Pine nuts from the Mediterranean pine trees add a subtle creaminess and a slightly sweet undertone.

Traditionally, pesto is prepared using a marble mortar and a wooden pestle. The basil leaves and garlic are first crushed into a paste, releasing their essential oils and aromas. Pine nuts are then added and ground, followed by the cheeses. Finally, olive oil is drizzled in a slow stream, binding the mixture into a smooth, homogenous sauce. This method preserves the integrity and flavor of the ingredients, creating a pesto that is vibrant green and intensely aromatic.

Pesto’s origins date back to the Roman era, where a similar sauce called “moretum” was made using herbs, garlic, cheese, and olive oil. The modern pesto alla Genovese emerged in the Liguria region during the Middle Ages, evolving from the tradition of pounding aromatic herbs. The first known recipe resembling today’s pesto appears in Giovanni Battista Ratto’s 19th-century book “La Cuciniera Genovese.” Ratto’s recipe highlighted the use of basil, garlic, and cheese, establishing the foundation for the classic preparation we know today.

Pesto alla Genovese is incredibly versatile and can enhance a variety of dishes. Traditionally, it is served with pasta, such as trofie or trenette, which are native to Liguria. The sauce is typically diluted with a small amount of the pasta cooking water to achieve a silky texture that coats the pasta evenly. Pesto can also be used as a spread for bruschetta, a topping for pizza, or a flavoring for soups, such as the Ligurian minestrone. It pairs well with vegetables, grilled meats, and seafood, adding a burst of fresh, herbal flavor to any dish.

Pesto holds a special place in Genoese culture, symbolizing the region’s culinary heritage and the importance of fresh, local ingredients. The annual Pesto World Championship in Genoa celebrates this iconic sauce, drawing participants from around the globe to compete in the art of traditional pesto-making. This event underscores the pride Ligurians take in their culinary traditions and their dedication to preserving authentic recipes.

While pesto alla Genovese remains the gold standard, various adaptations have emerged worldwide. These modern versions often substitute ingredients based on availability and personal preference. For instance, walnuts or almonds might replace pine nuts, while (if you want to really insult and betray the tradition) different herbs such as parsley or cilantro can be used instead of basil. In addition, there are other types of pesto originating from different parts of Italy, such as pesto alla Trapanese from Sicily, which includes tomatoes and almonds, and pesto rosso from Calabria, made with sun-dried tomatoes and red peppers.

Pesto alla Genovese is more than just a sauce; it is a testament to the rich culinary traditions of Genoa and the Liguria region. Its simple yet sophisticated blend of ingredients creates a symphony of flavors that has captivated food lovers for centuries. Whether enjoyed in its classic form or through modern adaptations, pesto continues to be a beloved and versatile staple in kitchens worldwide, celebrating the timeless appeal of fresh, quality ingredients and traditional cooking methods.